Emergency Needs in Israel

I have worked for a couple of years with a dear sewing friend, Dr. Deborah - who is in Israel.
She has put together a sewing relief type of organization and I have sent (and directed many others) to send our extra sewing stuff to her.
Her email is: neveshalom@yahoo.com so write to her if you have something you don't need and would like to donate it to her!!!! She is quite fearful of the future right now and for the Fall there in Israel. Regardless of your political position, these are fellow women who need our help.

Additionally, I have placed a listing at this link: http://www.londas-sewing.com/Israeliemergencyneeds.htm of other items that the people displaced with the evacuation of the Gaza and West Bank are in great need of....

Let's share what we have!
I'm trying as well here - in the Comments - to place complete copies of the emails Dr. Deborah has sent to me so that you can read of what is going on from perhaps a totally different viewpoint than what we get through our news here in the U.S.

As a Christian, I have travelled to Israel (Feb 2000) and have a great love and respect for this country of my religious heritage.

Londa

American Sewing Guild Conference Report

What a week! I'm still digging out from having a booth at the Conference in Nashville. Was such fun to meet so many of my customers and on-line friends in person.

Some thoughts...
1. Coni Crawford is GREAT! Her books are wonderful. If you want to get into pattern drafting/changing and have good fit - I highly recommend her books. She has written textbooks for colleges, and worked in fashion schools, and in the industry. Great qualifications, and my new measuring stick to hold anything else up against. Just because something is printed and in a magazine doesn't make it absolutely correct! Her website is: www.fashionpatterns.com. If I were a generous sized woman, I'd definitely use her patterns designed well for them! Due to the increase in size of many of our populace, she says that 1/3 of our country is without adequately fitting patterns.

2. Met Nancy Nix-Rice - author of the Palmer/Pletsch published Looking Good book - which I still think is the bestest book on the market for image, wardrobe planning, etc. A very nice lady with a set of gorgeous teenage twin daughters.

3. Susan Lazear also recommended www.firstview.com as a great place to see the images of runway collections.

Some quotes from her that I think are worth repeating:
"Designers rework an existing idea."
"Designers see things others don't."
"Designers are not Goddesses!"
"Call your sewing room your Studio - what you call it changes as your confidence grows. You, as a home sewer, are a "Designer" because that is what you se yourself as. You work in your "Studio" because that is what you call it. You are a Designer when you can't turn it off and see thiings as others don't. "

A "knock-off" is copying a garment as closely as possible - this is what the designs in The Sewing Workshop are.

An "Adaptation" is using a garmend design as a source of inspiration - not seeking to copy it exactly.

Speaking of that - I find the boutiques in nice hotels are the BEST places to do alot of "Inspiration shopping"! The one at the Gaylord was GREAT! I have pages of scribbled notes to develop. Many purses using Jean Tops - and embellished with Rhinestones. Many were lined with cardboard that was covered with Silk Doupionni to give them that stiff body that the fancy dancy expensive purses have these days - and these were $$$$$!!

Hey - the other thing was - I saw lots of JEANS in the shop with tall tops! Meaning - they come to the waist! I'm not sure if that is fashion changing, or just who they are marketing to - but if I still were on the Jean Hunt, I'd have made time to try them on. Real sizes as well!

Kenneth King was interesting - though the idea of using line from architecture as inspiration for fashion is straight out of many college classes I had. Personal opinion: he could keep his sexual preferences to himself and be equally entertaining.

Quote from Kenneth: "What I make is what I do and what I do is what I am. " Worth pondering... But, for myself, what I do is NOT what I am. I am more than that - especially in the eyes of my Maker, the one and only God.

Anyone else - please comment on your experiences, impressions. This is a wonderful gathering of those of us who get our 'kick' out of garment sewing. Yea...........

Sites to check out...when it's too hot to be outside!

Here is a great website for you fabric - olics out there:

http://www.fabriclink.com/Burntest.html

I also LOVE the books, Cotton, Silk and Wool - each in essence entire textile classes. These are always advertised in the back of sewing magazines, and I carry them on my www.londas-sewing.com website. GREAT summer reading!

Some other websites I was referred to by my friend Diana Pemberton of The Clothing Chronicles - www.fashionforrealwomen.com

www.cosmeticconnecion.com

www.fashion-era.com

www.hairboutique.com

www.made-in-italy.com

www.modeaparis.com

www.style.com

www.wwd.com

I must admit that only briefly scanned these - but enough to know they hold a vast wealth of knowledge, information and entertainment. I guess I'm just not yet into entertainment on the web, since I spend so much of my days on the computer with business!

Right now, early August will find me absolutely driven to a sewing fix!!!! After building the final of my family of sewing websites, I am computer-ed out!

The last weeks have found me super busy sorting, labelling, deciding, ordering, checking in, playing with new fabrics, etc., etc., etc., for the booth I'll have for the first time at the American Sewing Guild Conference in Nashville next Wed through Saturday. Ahhhhh - for a real sewing fix - this promises to be a heaven. I wish you all could come - and hope to meet some of you there in person! Now virtually all my stock is packed, and you should see the hilarity of my digging to fill orders as they come in.... o well - kind of like snooping through Christmas packages I have to tell myself...

My New sites:
www.londaskaiscissors.com great scissors from Kai, Mundial, and WolffUSA
www.londasnotions.com only notions that I personally use and love and recommend
www.londasclovernotions.com my version of all the great notions Clover has to offer.

And my daughter has hers launched as well: www.cttoys.com - great selection of interesting, different, educational toys.

Stay cool.............

Copying Ready-made garments

I just posted this as a comment under the Jeans discussion - but in case some of you might miss those increasing comments under that topic, I'm placing this also as an additional post.

Anonymous:Please know you don't have to tear apart a garment in order to get a pattern from it. Do consult th most recent THREADS Aug-Sept article using tape to do this by my pal, Jean Haas. It is ingenious. Also - in High Fashion Sewing Secrets by Claire Shaeffer, good directions can be found on copying a garment. I've done this, taught it, and it it works!!! Do let us know if you try it and your results...

Shopping for Jeans Saga

I'm still not doing much sewing right now, but I HAD to go hunt - and I mean HUNT some jeans. With a 29" or so waist and 41" hips, and legs a bit on the heavy side, this shouldn't have been THAT much of a challenge - but, alas - after trying on at least 30 pairs of jeans on Sunday - I have some conclusions.....

* Where to shop:
I looked at T.J. Maxxx and a college type resale store - though I must admit, since I was with my daughter (22 - a new Mom) - I might have gone to a department store to really look if I"d been by myself. ESPECIALLY if you want jeans that come at least 1" below your bely button - and THAT would be considered "Hi Waisted" and "Old Lady" - I think you would need to look in more conventional stores - and in the Ladies' sections... When I have some time, I'm gonna go investigate this further...

But - I really did want to try to get an acceptable pair or 2 of jeans that were more 'in currrent style' - thus the excursion...

Besides - my favorite pair that were denim/lycra - the lycra had poppped, given out all around the crotch - not acceptable to wear any longer (or so I was told!)....

*Rack Selection Process
Hummmm I looked for ones whose zipper looked at least at least the width of my four fingers... :)
I also like the 'give' of Lycra so I watched for that
If the thigh looked too super skinny - well, I went on...

* Fitting Process
I found it only took putting in one leg to see if it was going to work...so many didn't make it any further than that.
If I could get one leg in - I had some hope...
It was a quick conclusion that my undies were not 'in fashion' - as they showed over the top of absolutely EVERY pair I got all the way on! That will be yet another shopping trip now I suppose...

*What I bought -
Finally finding 2 pair that didn't leave enough room at the center back 'waist' to put my entire fist into - (I do have a slim, somewhat sway back), I felt that I had achieved victory. $10 for the ones at the resale store - and $16 at T J Maxxx.
Observation: the 'new' ones didn't appear any 'newer' than those at the resale store! In fact - some at the resale store looked newer!

Crotch length: 24 3/4" on one pair - 10.5" in front, 14.25" in back - wore them yesterday and felt they were 'falling down' all day long...
25 3/4" on the other pair 9.75" in front, 16" in back - sitting here in them, at least I don't feel like I'm 'exposed' on my back side... Another subtle observation - they seem to come up higher at the side seams, and dip subtly in the center front - I almost like that... Perhaps something to incorporate in the next pair of SoHo pants I make...

My daughter has already informed me that I MUST go get some new undies - that no one needs to know that mine are pink today! :)

Well ---- any others of you have some experience to share???

Hope I've enlightened/entertained you for a bit today...
Back to playing with oodles of new fabrics that have arrived.

Is it a scissors or a shear?

In setting up my newest website (not live yet), to sell Kai Scissors - and more, I've learned that a scissors is one into which only one finger goes into each handle hole. If you fit more than one finger in a hole - it is a shears. :)
Learning lots - can't wait to get this live and share more. There will be a page of cutting info on it as well...

Special Fabric Offer fr Londa

Special Fabric Offer
Designer Charles Chang Lima Fabrics

Am I ever having the time of my life - examining, petting, measuring, folding, describing over 40 yummy scrumptious fabrics in the Charles Chang Lima Collection I purchased on that Chicago buying trip!!!!

Honestly, it has become apparent that I have purchased more than 2 vans could possibly carry down the American Sewing Guild Convention the end of July - so I have to thin this out NOW!
Londa's Fashion Club Members will automatically be receiving actual swatches of these fabrics. (They are my VERY special customers..and always get top treatment!).
BUT - 2nd in line are those who have joined my BLOG.

Sew...if you e-mail me your name and address byTuesday morning, July 5 - I will include you in this sample mailing.

I don't have the time to scan and upload all of these fabrics to my website - so there will be a special ordering process described in the mailing.

Laces - French, VERY interesting black laces, sweater knits - already fused to nylon tricot, fine gabardines, rich textures, wonderful cotton shirtings... you'll be THRILLED! These are just what I dreamt of trying to find after my Chicago Gold Cost Designer snooping!!!

Prices will be VERY good - and even better if you take the entire yardage. First come...first get so don't delay once you get the swatches!!!!
Sew - send me your snail mail address. If you are a Fashion Club Member - just know you needn't do anything! AND, some Londa's 2 Cents Worth are also being written - at least 2 on their way to you by next week's end.

Sewing hugs,

Londa

http://www.londas-sewing.com
http://www.londasclovernotions.com
coming REAL soon: www.londasnotions.com and www.londaskaiscissors.com

What Londa's been up to...

Last week I was volunteering at a camp for the disabled run by the Joni and Friends association. What an experience. It was an honor and a privilege to serve these beautiful families.

While I was gone, my newest website featuring the wonderful Clover Notions from Japan was launched: http://www.londasclovernotions.com Go take a peek. Through the end of June, all shipping is half price!

AND, I'm hard at work on yet 2 other new sites:
Londa's Favorite Sewing Notions - consisting just of my own personal picks of the very best of the notions available.... 40 years of serious sewing speaking here. :)
will be: http://www.londassewingnotions.com - hopefully by July 2.

Kai Scissors - also from Japan, =- again, hopefully live by July 2... http://www.londaskaiscissors.com

I'd love it if some of you would chime in and share what you're sewing on...

Hot, humid - great summer days here in central Illinois.

Londa


AND - Kai

For what the designer's are up to...

I've been enjoying the newsletter on the latest releases of the top designers from this site:
http://www.net-a-porter.com and thought you might too. Just sign up for their newsletter.

Some quick glances will make you smile from ear to ear that you sew!

I was gone all last week volunteering in the name of Christ to disabled children and their families - what an experience! More later...

This week, every morning, I have 3 little girls here - Sewing Camp!

Have fun looking at designer clothes...

Any comments most welcome!

Chicago Gold Coast Fashion Report

I had a GREAT time combing through racks of top designer fashions in Saks, Neiman, Bloomingdales, Chanel, etc. this week in downtown Chicago.

Some observations I think you'll find interesting, inspiring, and even entertaining...

• a 5' plus long pleated scarf - maybe 8" wide. Could certainly be done on the Perfect Pleater. Stitched down the center, a long, very skinny bias cording . This was a wonderful scarf. I can also see having fabric pleated to do this. I know San Fransisco Pleating Company can do that to fabric for you. I may just have to do these in Orange with blue center strip for my www.londas-illiniwear site...

• RAW EDGES! Especially on knits and lightweight mesh/net and silk chiffon edges. Tucks sewin on the outside as texture. Large, square pieces for drapes and skirts. Lots of bias cut skinny strips sewn around and around the yoke area of skirts. Skinny elastic tucked up, stretched and stitched between an outer and lining layer on skirts.

• At Antropologie - a very fun website, and place to visit - shuch shabby chic things - but to see that concept done well --- "'classed up" in fabric and fabrications by the designers was the real treat for me! Anthropologie was just too too - if you know what I mean. I don't think it's quite totally 'right' for us baby-boomers - IMHO. Some of the ideas, quieted down are fun though. Anyway - there is where I saw SO many raw edges. How about on a pair of paper bag pants, both the hem on legs and casing on top were turned to the outside of the garment, coverstitched with the loopy side of the stitch on the outside about 1/4" away from the raw edge of the hem/casing - which was let to hang and fray. Linen/Rayon. I liked that one - certainly EZ to sew!!!

• Another great idea at Anthropologie was hooks from hooks and eyes and snaps - the silver ones, glued onto the top of a padded box as decoration on these Sewing Kits. In shapes of flowers, borders - absolutely TOO Cute!!!

• Chanel: I saw this 'pleated' effect wool tweed skirt in the window one n ight - almost the "Carwash Skirt" effect - then was anxious to go in the next day to confirm that, yes - indeed, the edges of each section were just zig-zagged!!!!! Sections about 8" wide, overlapped about 1 1/2" from waist to hip - then 'loose' the remainder of the knee-length skirt. Both long edges were just zig-zagged as a finish. Amazingly....well, I just don't know quite how I feel about that!
• Chanel: Jacket Peplums cut on the bias - unlined, unfinished .
• Chanel: Black lace/mesh neting over a print chiffon in the top under a "Chanel" jacket - also used to line and vertically quilt together with the outer tweed fabric layer 'a la Chanel' technique. Still with the chain tacked inside the hem though to weight it down. I had Clair Shaeffer at my shop in 2003 and she gave a class on Chanel - what fun! Anyway - it gave me a somewhat 'Chanel-educated' eye with which to examine/evaluate things.
• Lapel Flower at Chanel - and interestingly enough, the all seemed to be located on the garment's left side (everywhere). I myself always opt to put the shoulder decoration on the garment's right side, so as one is being looked at - and the effect 'read' - it 'reads' like a book: left to right... Anyway - back to the flower: simply multiple layers of chiffon circles stitched together flat, and adorned with some 'leafy shapes' of the jacket tweed fabric that had been fused onto Fusiknit to give some body.
• Chanel Laced Trim. On a white texture-y tweedy fabric, black silk chiffon in bias strips - probably starting about 3" wide, just laced in a running stitch - about 2" penetrations along the neckline and front and sleeve edges. Raw white fabric edges beyond that, backed with a tiny ruffle of the bias cut black silk chiffon to complete the 'finish' of the neckline, front, and sleeve edges.

• Tahari (from whom I have a bunch of fabric coming in, by the way!) Men-looking pin stripe wools in luscious, lightweight Italian wool in a jacket - then with a 'trim' of a bias cut strip of that same wool gathered up at tight as possible along both edges and used as a trim - only about 5/8" wide - along the upper collar edge and lapel/center front edges. Also then the same 'trim' as the welt on the diagonally placed welt pockets. That 'feminine touch' that seemed to prevail on everything - regardless of how tailored it was to start.

• Godets everywhere! In skirts - naturally, but also as trim on an Armani Jacket! Picture a godet shape (pie shape) about 4" long, placed horizontally along a jacket front - with the wide part of the godet at the center front. Both the long edges of the godet stitched into horizontal seaming on the jacket, but placement such that the godet is floppy - or turns into a 'cone' 3-D shaped texture! This was in Armani's new Fall Line. $1395 for that jacket. I see why!
• Also on an Armani Jacket - black wool flecky tweed (I have some of that fabric type coming!) trimmed with a WILD print binding on the jacket. Quite nice.

• Akris Soft wool plaid jacket - brown (as was most everything coming in for Fall). Bias cut, double layer soft peplum on the jacket - unpressed lower edge so almost ruffly-like in a very soft (feminine) way.

• Pucci stood out with amazing big, colorful Prints in his wool jackets - typically Pucci style. I didn't see any of that fabric to buy for you all, however! :(

• Speaking of color - the brown, all tones of brown - from coppery to raisiny. A browned-down plum seemed prevalent as well. In general though - the more expensive it was - the less color it had.

• Zig Zag Stitching - Lots and Lots of it as a finish! From Anthropoligie to Ann Taylor to Chanel and Armani - I saw this over and over again. Kind of like the designers found this 'new stitch' on their machines - or that their serger was broken. Though, there were lots of serged (both wide, regular and rolled hems) on edges as well. BUT, if the edge would work left raw - it certainly was!

• Large floral prints in sheer skirts were the message in every designers' Spring/Summer lines - now on the sale racks, as the fall is coming in.

• Award for the most preposterous pricing: holey jeans from Dolce and Gabbana at $1675. I suppose I'm supposed to be 'taken' by the 2" wide snakeskin strip down the side seams, bordered on each side with cheap-looking ecru netting. I passed these up for my own wardrobe. At Saks if you wanna run up and snatch them up for your own wardrobe! :)

• Striking Texture Combination was a Rosey Pink Sheared Beaver short Jacket over a sosft, flowey silk chiffon and beaded evening gown. That cold Lake Michigan effect you know! This was absolutley stunning though.

• Evening wear echoed the same slim top to flowy bottom silhouette I saw over and over in the Miss Universe Pagaent on 5/31. Just like I used to draw and design for my paper dolls as a kid...........

• Riri Zipper Idea: Jumped out at me in an Armana Leather Jacket ($2375). An off-center zipper placement that extended up into a large 10" wide or so collar. Backside of the zipper then showed when the collar turned down - I'm definitely gonna play with this idea....

• Soft Wool Plaid Bias Cut unlined wool pant - in a light tan color - with surprise black and white cotton print binding at the waist.

FABRIC BUYS

I hit the jackpot at a favorite design end house - an entire grouping of the finest Italian fabrics from designer Charles Chang Lima (check him out at t his link - or just Google for his name) http://www.fashionfinds.com/june00/pages/charles-chang-lima-1.htm that would normally range in price from $25 and UP.... and I will be able to offer them for half that!!!! Due in early July - along with lots of pieces from TAHARI as well. These are short cuts - 3-7 yards in most cases, on which I'll be offering a great "Full Piece Price".

What Londa's Up To...

Sorry I've been so 'silent' lately...
Your fearless leader has been busy:
1. Editing my first E- Book on CD: Creative Sweatshirt Jackets -
due to ship June 8, 2005...
2. Building yet another website - this time featuring mainly Clover Notions - with a "Londa Twist". Due to launch within a few weeks.
Here, you'll be able to get any Clover Notion in bulk and enjoy a 20% discount any day. Start to tell your friends...
3. Off May 31-June 2 to buy fabric!!!!
4. Readying for booth at American Sewing Guild Conference end of July in Nashville...
5. Snuggling that Grandson of mine...

Storing Winter Clothing

A hint: if your cedar chest doesn't smell so 'cedar-y" any longer, give it a little sanding with a fine sandpaper before storing your winter clothes.

This is a quick snapshot of the T-Shirt I made for my Son-in-Law for his first Birthday as a Daddy. I used the PHoto Transfer Paper I carry from June Tailor. I used another of the tShirts in the 3 package set onto which to transfer the photos, then cut them out and zig zagged them on with a big, open zig zag. Why? I was afraid I'd mess up the main t-shirt - most likely on the 3rd picture! AND, then I sewed them on rather than fusing them on because I didn't want it to be stiff. This way, I was also able to position the pictures as I desired. He's kinda funny to please - but a big smile sure came across his face when he realized what this was. AND, he recently told me he would wear it on Father's Day!
from Londa's design room

Baby clothes

Observations from the new Granny here...

When watching Cole last night - he seemed very uncomfortable - at 8 weeks, an outfit - though soft knit - had a large applique on the front - it was just stiff, and ended up scrunched up around his neck. We were both relieved when we changed out of that outfit!
So - beware, and remember the child's comfort and don't get carried away with just what looks 'cute' to us big people!

Likewise, when this little 8 week old guy was here on his Daddy's birthday over the weekend, the elastic of jeans didn't look very comfy either.

I suppose I'm just struck with how much we probably dress our babies to please us - and NOT them!

Also - I agree fullheartedly with another's observation I recently read - that babies are aoo tush (diaper) and belly - and it just doesn't 'work' with the majority of clothing that seems to be all leg and arm.

Any comments???