Baby Alyssa Ensemble

I've been so looking forward to sewing some little GIRL ruffles - and baby Alyssa,my sister's granddaughter born May 23 is just the excuse...

This little Sun Suit from Sew Beautiful, current issue No.137, 2011. Vol. 25, No. 4.

First, I show folding the back ruffles as directed. I KNOW my ruffles are cuter because I cut them on the BIAS rather than on straight grain as directed.







This is the back for Baby's bibbed sun suit. It has you hand wind elastic thread (without stretching) onto the bobbin, then stitch. Oh - and once you do this stitching as directed, it is important to hold a steam iron over it to make it all pull up as you see here. I don't like this technique - never have, as it doesn't hold up. I would rather advise to line with a soft fabric - even in this area only, sew casings, and run 1/8'' elastic through the casings. You'll be happier.


This is the sleeve ruffle - cutting an arc at one end, then using that as the pattern to cut the arc at the other end. I used fabric cut on the bias, and folded for the ruffles instead of eyelet trim or lace.







Here are my finished straps. See my gathering technique on You-Tube. Search for Londa Sewing...









Cloth Baby Booties
These are adorable Robeeze copy fabric baby booties. I found the pattern on a blog - www.stardustshoes.blogspot.com.

Here you see I have pulled the 9'' length of elastic through the Heel casing, and the wrong side of the Top through the slits, pulled to 7'', stitched, then the excess cut off. Note that the sides of the heel are NOT stitched to the sides of the Top/Sole seam. This took me a bit to figure out.

















Ahhh - too cute! Now, I've trimmed the Sole to Top and Heel seam by pinking with pinking shears. I honestly think this is preferred to serging because tiny toenails could get caught in serging threads/loops. This makes it nice and soft inside, and solves the notching that is necessary to remove some of the bulk of the 'outie' seam allowance because when it gets turned right side out - that exterior most seam edge becomes an 'innie' curve as I say - needing less space. Understand?







Elastic joining scootched around so invisible. This shot shows the inside of the bootie really well.

Cute or what? Needs a bonnet....























Back View ...I just had to add the yellow ribbon on the straps and down the center of the butt ruffles.








Londa's Heirloom Bonnet  -Kit 
SAVE on my combo of the pattern seen below, silk organza for back pouf lining, elastic, baby piping cord, safety pins. 


Creating the Fancy Band for the Baby Bonnet. Here is the first step of the Colonial or Candle Wicking Knot - I"m using 1/8'' wide silk ribbon. The white is adorable,delicate tatting I bought at the Martha Pullen Arlington Market I did in late June, 2011.













Next step in those Candle-Wicking Knots.












And...the last step in the decorative knot. I let my silk ribbon travel from one knot to the other on the back side of the Fancy Band as my pattern directs you to line this Fancy Band any way - covering it up.Note here you can see that I staggered the loops of the double rows of the tatting when I applied it. I carry the itsy bitsy piping cord at my website. You can see it at both edges of the Fancy Band. Yellow was obviously the 3rd, and accent color of this ensemble.

Just enough tatting left to put into the front edge of the front Ruffle on the Bonnet. Yeah!










Stitching the 'lining of the Front Ruffle - from the side where I can see the stitching of attaching the tatting - stitching just a needle width to the left of that stitching.












Cutting the arcs at each end of the Front Ruffle.











Using my gathering technique to attach Front Ruffle to Fancy Band. Note the threads figure 8'd around that right most pin. My You-Tube video can be found with all the rest of my how-to videos HERE.








Ahhh - too cute! I LOVE sewing ruffles. Dear Lord, send me a Grand Daughter to join my #1 grandson! Now to line the Fancy Band.








Sandwiching the Fancy Band/Front Ruffle unit with the Front Band Lining as per my really good directions in this pattern - my very first - done way back in1988!!!









Flipping Fancy Band Lining to the inside. See how nicely that baby piping just adds the little touch of color at each long edge of the Fancy Band - which, by the way sizes the bonnet. You just take earlobe over head to other earlobe (bottoms of each) and add 1/2'' for how long to create the Fancy Band - and approx 2'' to 2 1/2'' wide.




Drawing in side bonnet casing lines as per directions - on OUTSIDE of the Pouf.










At this time - I realized I hadn't cut a Pouf Lining (duh - I didn't have enough fabric!), so I went to my STASH and found the perfect silk organza for the ling - which is over the top of all this - the elastic pieces as directed, are secured. The left one is for the back pouf circlet and the right one (duplicated at the other end of the Pouf) is to pull the bonnet in at the bottom, neck edge. The Silk Organza was perfect because it is lightweight and ads just the perfect crispness to the bonnet.

This shows ripping a little hole at the X as at the top of the 2nd side of the directions in my pattern. This is the ONLY thing in these - my very first directions ever, that I would improve on - you can't really see the X in the diagram. It is at the left end of the Back neck Crown Edge - right above the words 'Center Back'. It is through this hole that the back crown elastic will exit. That gets anchor stitched, and eventually covered with a ribbon/button unit as you'll see.


My directions do instruct you to secure tiny safety pins onto the ends of each piece of elastic, so that you can easily pull the elastic through after the Pouf Lining is attached.









Oooo - I need a manicure! Anyway - securing the end of the elastic with machine stitching. Do at both 'sides' or bottom edges of the POUF.








Attaching Pouf to the back side of the Fancy Band. The pattern calls for a Back Ruffle as well as the Front Ruffle, but I just didn't think this bonnet needed the Back Ruffle. What fun is sewing...YOU are the designer!







Now it is time to stitch across each of the lowermost ends of the Fancy Band, securing the Lining to the outer Fancy Band. I designed an absolutely adorable technique to attach the Ties on the outside. See next steps!







How the bottom-most edges look all finished off.











1/4'' folded in on both sides of each tie. At the machine, finger fold in the little bit of extra. Establish where under the presser foot the right folded edge will be guided, and WALA, a beautiful, double folded and stitched edge! Do one side of each Tie.











Fold one end at an angle as shown. Now,stitch across this double layer at the other long edge, along the pressed line from the opposite side you see here.








Trim excess, turn right side out, pull out corner crisply with a pin and press. NOW finish the other long edge with same technique used on first long edge,but stop at this cross stitching.

Fold 3/4'' down to the wrong side at the other end of each tie. THEN fold it as shown.









Attach folded end with machine stitching as shown, then pull center fold down as you see here. Add a decorative Candle Wick Knot or French Knot inside for that special little touch.












Hand crocheted thread loops close the back of the Bonnet - at both the back crown elastic edge, and the lower edge. Ribbon streamers make it very 'girly'. I need to add my hand crochet method for thread loops to my YouTube Videos...











Finished ensemble. Now to wrap it and send it off. She's just a month old now - so this will be perfect for NEXT spring and summer. Can't wait to see baby Alyssa - my Grand Niece - first GIRL of the GREAT Grand Kids for my folks in it!

Londa's Heirloom Bonnet  -Kit 
SAVE on my combo of the pattern, silk organza for back pouf lining, elastic, baby piping cord, safety pins. 

Houston Quilt Festival...Londa's Classes

Houston Quilt Festival Classes with Londa 2011

The Class Catalog has been mailed to Quilt Angels (helpers) from last year. Others have been mailed today - June 27 via regular bulk mail. Links have just been added to this post for my classes. They just became available today, JULY 6, for online registration. For all info - go to to www.quilts.com website.
If you want to get a spot in my hands-on workshop(s), I highly recommend that you go ahead and contact Quilts, Inc. now, or be ready to register via the website on July 6!

Here is a link to register to attend classes. Click HERE

I am SEW honored and excited to be part of the faculty at the 2011 Houston Quilt Festival! I had just a few lecture/demo classes in 2010, which must have gotten good enough reviews for me to be accepted into this group of teachers for the 'top dog' show of them all...the Houston Quilt Festival! I'm sew excited that I just can hardly express the honor this is for me. I am SEW blessed.............

I've constructed this page (and added to my Blog as well) to give complete and more explanation of each class - links to the classes at the Quilts, INC. website, and page numbers on the catalog just received by many sewers all over the WORLD!

Lecture/Demo Classes

#307 page 40 Creative Sweatshirt Jackets - Londa's Way $35
Wednesday, November 2 8 - 11 am

Catalog Description: "Relax and learn not only how to transform a sweatshirt into a great jacket that fits using either of two techniques, but design principles that will help you look your best every day. Viewing photos and numerous jackets will get your creative juices flowing with ideas and clear techniques for wearable art garments."

Londa's Additional Description: This will be a GREAT class with THREE HOURS to slowly and deliberately not only SHOW you many photographs of jackets, but ALSO to teach you both of my fitting techniques. Armed with my techniques, you'll be able to 'fix' any 'sweatshirt jacket' you may have already created, but which you might not be happy fit-wise. This will be a 2 hour expanded version of the class called "Creative Sweatshirt Jackets that Fit n Flatter" as I teach at other expos around the country. IN ADDITION, because I know that understanding proportion, balance, rhythm, color and focal points are all KEY to creating a well-designed wearable art garment, this class will also include what I offer at many other expos around the country called "Frumpy to Wow..Design Principles for Creative Sewing". These principles will not only improve ALL your sewing, but also help you as you dress Every DAY!

#463 page 50 Londa's Fashion Show of Stylish Sweatshirt Jackets $8
Thursday, November 3 4-5 pm

Catalog Description: "Be awestruck at Rohlfing's inspiring one-woman show of spectacularly fashionable jackets that started life as...sweatshirts! Endless creative embellishments along with tried-and-true fitting and construction techniques will inspire you to recycle and rpurpose as you make great garments from your stash of fabrics desperate for new life!"

Londa's Additional Description: This is a the Trunk Show of ALL of my current wardrobe of Creative Sweatshirt Jackets. I weave as much 'how-to's as I possibly can into this fast-moving one woman Trunk Show, but this in no way replaces the above class. Instead, you'll see each and every one of my jackets ON my body so that you can really appreciate the fit and the design. BULLETIN: My designs are not just for sweatshirts!!!! My designs and embellishment techniques can be used on ANY BASE for a jacket that you so desire! I allow Photos in this class, but NO video taping.

Hands-On Classes

#105 page 29 Create a Stylish Sweatshirt Jacket --- That Fits! $122
Monday, October 31 8 am - 5 pm

Catalog Description: "Using Rohlfing's "Genesis Too™ Talking Pattern (sent to you before class to preview and study), re-cut a top quality sweatshirt to raise the dropped sleeve to a natural shoulder for a great fit; design embellishment with your fabric grouping using design principles taught: transform the sweatshirt lower band into a classic cardigan neckline; and trim with bias cut silky 'fabric fur" and yarn combinations." www.londas-sewing.com/pages.php?pageid=87

Londa's Additional Description: This is a full day class, but they allow for a 2 hour lunch break - (however I WILL be available during that entire time span if you want to continue to work!). I can NOT promise that you will finish your jacket...because everyone 'does their homework' (or NOT!) and understands differently, AND, everyone works at different rates. However, What I DO PROMISE is that you WILL understand the fitting and embellishment/creation process VERY WELL so that you can go home and finish up your jacket with confidence. The homework PRIOR to class is KEY to achieving great progress during the hands=on class. Your sweatshirt and my Genesis Too™ Talking Pattern™ will be sent to you before you arrive. YOUR assignment is to sit in front of your computer and watch/listen to me explain each and every step of the creation of this jacket as you view photos of every step! THAT is what a Talking Pattern™ is! (My invention!).
You MUST do this or I cannot be responsible for making up all the difference in your understanding during the class...as that would NOT be fair to those who HAVE made the time to watch and learn from this wonderful opportunity. (If you still have dial-up internet service, you'll have to go to a library or somewhere with faster service, as it does NOT work on dial-up! - something over which I have 0 control.) ALSO- if you are a generously sized woman, I really want to give you some additional guidance on what to bring, think about BEFORE the class. Please give me that opportunity. We can creatively solve your challenges, but with the time constraints, we need to work on that BEFORE the class.
The class limit is 25 students, BUT I will have Carol Coleman with me - who is very experienced in my techniques and fit, who will be the SECOND teacher available to you in class!

Regarding Supplies: The $49 Kit includes: Sweatshirt (Size 2XL to 3 XL-for more generously sized ladies) in a color of your choice, my Genesis Too™ Talking Pattern™, the needed Straight Fusible Stay Tape, and 5 spools of matching Metrosene polyester thread. $49 is a real BARGAIN for these products - which would normally retail at $63.95 ($66.95 for 3XL sweatshirt needs)! I need to have as much lead time as possible (minimum of 4 weeks!) in order to get the sweatshirts ordered and to each of you, and also the pattern so that you can DO YOUR LISTENING AND LEARNING HOMEWORK!!! I really don't think this will be a problem, as I anticipate this class filling very quickly since it was SO requested during my classes and Fashion Show in 2010. Though everyone will be making the same general cardigan style jacket, with 3 different design plans (that will be emailed to you well before class), and everyone's different fabric combinations, all students will leave with a one-of-a-kind jacket!

Also You Need to Bring FABRICS: a coordinated grouping including 3/4 yard of Fabric A (the 'Main Actress'), and 1/2 yard each of Fabrics B & C (the 'Supporting Actresses') AND 2 silky fabrics in accent colors plus a coordinating Yarn. I will soon have up HERE some sample combinations to help guide you.

Available for Purchase in Class of the other Sewing Supplies Listed in the brochure will be: Fabric Chenille Brush ($5.25) and Monofilament Nylon Thread ($3.75). There is a shortage of monofilament nylon thread currently, so I highly suggest that you find and bring some to class. Polyester can also work. Clear if your yarn is a lighter color - Smoke if your yarn is a darker color.

#814 page 67 Fiber Embellishments for Artistic Wearable Garments $47
Sunday, November 6 31 9 am - noon

Catalog Description: "Learn all these tricks while stitching away the morning - Rohlfing's techniques for folding fabric for bias cutting, stabilizng edges, fine finishing for bias, creating luscious 'fabric fur' from silks, selecting and applying couching yarn, and twin needle texturizing. See demos for multi-cord sole couching and twisted cords.
www.londas-sewing.com/pages/.php?pageid=87

Londa's Additional Description: You will be making samples - as you learn techniques for all the 'embellishments' that I incorporate into the creation of my wearable art jackets. You will also see many garments (NOT sweatshirts) from my own wardrobe so that you can envision adding these embellishments to your own clothing.

Regarding Supplies: The $8 kit fee includes shaped knit fabric to stabilize and bind, fusible stabilizer, Italian Trim, and yarn to couch.... a Kit of all the bases and things you need to apply. For other supplies, see the brochure from Quilts, Inc.

Londa's Must Have Starter Sewing Notions

Londa's 'Must Have' Starter Sewing Notions

If you've decided to give sewing a try --- more than just stitching up rips and sewing on buttons --- these are the notions that I think you should invest in.....

• Seam Ripper - I like this one for the big, easy to grip handle.
• Water Soluble Marker - select fine or thick point
• Applique Sharp Needles - Black/Gold from Clover sizes 9-12 - perfect size here for most hand sewing uses
• Point Turner - my absolute favorite, simple tool to safely push out corners once you turn something right side out
• Loop Turner - inexpensive, loop on one end for holding, hook on other...handy to hook onto elastic lost in a casing in addition to turning a tube!
• Protect & Go Thimble from Clover - my favorite new thimble! Select size.
• Double Needle Threader from Clover - one end fine, other side heavier
• Steam a Seam 2 - paper backed 1/2" wide fusible web - a 'strip' of glue that bonds 2 fabrics together
• Schmetz Needle Collection - Londa's favorite needles that will cover most any type of need based on fabric and threads
• KAI 5135 scissors - small, but still large enough for quick clipping and trimming
• KAI 5220 Shears - my favorite for cutting garments - invest in these to last a lifetime! Once you get 'hooked' you'll want to add a rotary cutter, cutting mat, etc.

I simply would NOT allow a student to 'fish' pins out of a tin in my classes...what a waste of time! AND, a 'pin' is NOT defined as those things that hold men's shirts together or a corsage on your jacket! Treat yourself to these wonderful PINS and a Pin CUSHION so you can easily and quickly retrieve them and store them as needed!

• Ewesful Pincushion - sets flat, lubricates pins and needles at the same time. Saves time grabbing instead of in a 'tin'
• Glass Head Pins from Clover - EZ to get hold of - won't melt with iron - perfect strength, yet fine enough for silks

It's SEW Easy -NEW PBS show...

It's Sew Easy, Series 100 is a NEW sewing show on the horizon offering Public Television viewers a novel approach to sewing through unique television experience.

The program is based on sewing and pattern designers featuring education that revolves around their expertise. Projects demonstrated are easy enough for beginners but creatively challenging for seasoned stitchers. The experts concentrate on easy ways to accomplish great sewing projects without the stress of perfection.

The show format includes two main projects each week and one shorter technique segment. Show themes include: Apparel Details and Embellishments, Kids and Baby, Simple Sewing, Make it Personal, Dress up Ready Made Home Decor, Garment Construction Tips, Patterns, Surface Embellishment, %-shirt Surgery, Fun Fabrics, Restyling, Gifts, and Easy Sewing Tricks.

It's Sew Easy replaces America Sews with Sue Hausmann, promising to give faithful viewers a new spin on sewing where America Sews left off.

It's Sew Easy gives viewers the opportunity to invite experts into their home to show them how to enhance their sewing skills and create personalized apparel and home accents. Whether they are a novice or experienced sewer, they'll learn why It's Sew Easy!

It's Sew Easy, Series 100
Uplinks Thursday, June 30, 2011
from 1800-1830ET/HD 04 via NETA
The National Educational Telecommunications Association.

Write/Call your local PBS station and ask them to include this great new show in their lineup.

It's Sew Easy is made possible in part by:
Brother International Corp, Havel's Sewing, BurdaStyle, Horn of America, Rowenta, Vogue Fabrics, Inc, Original Sewing Quilt Expo, The Warm Company, Coats and Clark,
and Blumenthal Lansing

A DVD set of all 13 episodes of Season 100 of It's Sew Easy is available for $39.99 plus shipping and handling. Orders can be placed at itsseweasytv.com. You won't miss a single episode of projects and patterns from the experts featured each week on It's Sew Easy.
So - here is the 'studio. A bit intimidating? Well - all depends on your experience I suppose. It was a bit to me, that's for sure - as I'd only done this one other time - for Nowsewing.net a Pfaff series which is not available any longer.

A quick plane trip to Cleveland the beginning of March took me there - after weeks of thinking/writing/ rehearsing in my brain...and convincing myself that it wouldn't be any different from teaching a class like I love to do at the expos.

Those sentiments began to fall apart when I realized that I'd forgotten to pack my favorite and MOST IMPORTANT Fabric Chenille Brush to show the last step of ruffing up my 'Fabric Fur'!!!!! Thankfully, the guys in the studio came up with a stiff wire brush from their tool box! When you see my spot - you'll notice I have my big hand almost completely covering that precious brush!!!

Being female - I was VERY happy to learn that my makeup would be done by a professional. Being over 55 - I have to admit I forget this lovely, talented artist's name...but she was beautiful and put me totally at ease. Here's her doing her magic on me.

It was fun to meet/share the experience/give each other encouragement that day. Tricial Wadell, Bobbie Bullard, Eileen Roche, Trish Preston, Katrina Loving - and very memorably, 'SUEDE' from Project Runway were all taping the day I shot my spot.

It was very interesting to hear Suede's story about the development of his career as designer, and also to hear all the 'ins and outs' of his contracting with Simplicity for his patterns.

I suppose you've heard of 'Green Rooms' for TV guests? Well - I have no idea why - or even IF 'green rooms' are really green - but at this studio - it sure was!

And what a creative mess it was.... here's a peak.
Sew... that's the story. We were encouraged to wait until now to share about the series - but since the release is upon us - now you need to help! The more stations we can get this series on - the more people will see it - and the more people will join with us in enjoying the many benefits of sewing!

Use for sweatshirt neck band!

A creative student proved me wrong....I always say I've never found a use for the neck ribbing of the sweatshirts as I create my Creative Sweatshirt Jackets. Well...while presenting a seminar/workshop at Fabrics Etc. 2 in Bensenville, IL last weekend, a clever student came to me with this rose!
1. Cut off the neck band from the sweatshirt.
2. Rotary cut off the seam allowance.
3. OPen it up so you have double the width.
4. Set a serger for a wide balanced stitch with decorative threads in upper and lower loopers. This was done with the WAVE STITCH on a BABYLOCK serger - which is a new wrinkle to me since my days of selling machines/sergers ended almost 8 years ago now!
5. Gather remaining end and twirl and stitch into a rosette.
WALA....... WAY TO GO!
Sorry I forget the name of the student who did it - Cindy perhaps?

Had lots of fun at this candy store of a quilt/machine shop! What a nice owner - Mary Forte, and her helpers/associates. If you're ever in Chicagoland - don't miss Fabrics Etc. 2 in Bensenville!

GREAT Vest on my Houston Helper

As I was going through photos from the Houston Quilt Festival, I found these of my helper, Pat, and her great vest. She made it of recycled and felted wool sweaters, vests, etc. The striped binding is even the lining of a jacket she picked up for $.50 at her local thrift shop!

Button-Bustin' Proud of my Girl

Had the joy of paging through my dear daughters' (27) 'House Idea'' Folder with her last night...what fun! She and hubby are about to close on their first house - and she's obviously been dreaming and collecting and vicariously 'feathering' her nest for quite awhile now...
Conclusions:
1. She has the creative bug - THAT's for sure! She must have caught it - that is exciting!
2. That sewing machine I gave her (and everything notions-wise to use it) will soon be broken out of it's case - especially since she's 2 hours away from ole' Mom here.
3. There is nothing she doesn't think she can do! How awesome is that?!? Even hard wood floors - Wow!

Anyway - I borrowed a couple of her tear-out sheets cause I thought you sewing gals might find these ideas interesting...
How cute and clever is that! Lace tacked into side of makeup drawer to hold things in place!
In all the pillow-making I've done over the years - I don't think I ever did what you see above - simple Knife edged pillows with different sides. How simple is that???

Avoiding 'Dog-Earred' Pillows...
Reminds me of something I learned from a Singer Sewing Reference Library book on Home Dec - which I can NOT find anywhere now - when she could use them - though I DO think I loaned all of those to her back when she was decorating an apartment..... is what you see below... folding fabric (or pattern you cut SAME size as pillow form - NOT larger for seam allowances!) in quarters, then trimming 1/2" off at corners to nothing half way along each of the 2 sides or loose ends and you get this: Believe me - it WORKS! Then - take 1/2" seam allowances and you'll end up with a VERY nice, SQUARE rather than POINTY cornered pillow, fully and tightly stuffed pillow!

She also had lots of pictures of pleated treatments - and most seemed to be Box Pleats. That made me think of the handy dandy Simflex Gauge that I finally have back in stock... for marking things like pleats. Wonderful - marvelous -super dooper - can't live without it notion. If you don't have one - order quickly! I'm definitely packing them this weekend to go along to the American Sewing Guild Conference in Atlanta.

Working hard on new jackets - and making Refined™ into a Talking Pattern™...