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Friday, April 08, 2011

DKNY Vogue 1250 in 2.5 hours

This is just too much fun!
I've been working too darned hard - and decided to sneak in a new dress for myself this my Vogue patterns (see last post) arrived yesterday!

I am so fortunate to be able to not only have been taught to sew - but to have the $ TO sew, and to have work that I LOVE to do - in teaching others and sharing how I do it! For all that - I give God the glory. On top of that, I have the health to do it. I have a dear friend with fibromyalgia who hurts too much to do lots of things - so for health as well, I give God the glory!

That being stated, in just 2.5 hours TOPS, I cut out and stitched up Vogue 1250 of this teal slinky jacquard fabric this morning - and will proudly wear it tonight at the neighborhood ballroom dancin hall!

I've been so 'into' taking photos of every step as I work on my Creative Sweatshirt Jacket Talking Patterns™ , that I just couldn't convince myself to NOT do that for this garment all the photos AND my commentary below each are available at my Picasa Album created for it as found HERE.

Therefore, I'll add just a few progress photos at this post.
Sheesh - do I have thread?? It's a knit - so I don't need to serge - and it's a simple dress, so it won't take much thread. However, I DO want to twin needle stitch. Here's what I found...these 3. The RULE ALWAYS IS: select a DARKER thread than your fabric. THAT is why the middle and the right ones worked the best. AND it had to be 100% polyester thread in order to stretch with the fabric.

For needle, I selected my favorite size 75/11 STRETCH needle - meaning it has a slightly rounded tip - to separate the fibers of the fabric, rather than to pierce them as a sharp needle would do. A Denim/Sharp or Microtex needle is sharp pointed for woven fabrics. A UNIVERSAL needle is just a hybrid of Stretch and Sharp -and imho, NOT the best for ANYTHING. My advice - take it or leave it.

REad at the Picasa Blog - but after determining and measuring the back finished neckline, allowing that that is supposed to be 1" below my back neck bone, and checking waist length, I determined that I needed to add 5/8" to the pattern. That's what I've done here. Made use of my favorite pattern tissue paper, Medical Pattern Paper - available at my website, ALWAYS have magic scotch tape in a desk dispenser too!

I decided to try to add a godet up the center back seam (there are NO side seams!). Here is my figuring and cutting that long triangle from leftover fabric.

Speaking of fabric, I'm glad I bought extra, as this fabric was 50" wide instead of 60" wide. 60" wide fabric requires only 1.25 yards! Even that was hard for me to believe - so I bought 3 I believe...and hope to get a little T-Shirt out of the leftovers.

I have a really slick way of marking with pins...find it COMPLETELY explained at the Picasa Web Album via photos and my comments under each photo. To be able to read all the comments, you have to click on EACH photo.

This technique ONLY works when the fabric is cut out RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER. You just stab pins in where you want it marked, carefully tear away the pattern, stick pins in on the opposite side, then pull apart - THEN pin together to mark where to stitch.

This dress is SO EASY!
1. I added the center back godet.
2. I threw away the silly back neck facing pattern and used Clear Elastic instead to finish the back neckline.
3. Stitch front tucks and shoulder seams.
4. Stitch back seam.
5. Stitch upper back to back skirt.
6. Hem lower and sleeve edges.

VERY important is hemming - and STABILIZING the hem - which I did using Knit/Stretch Fusible Stay Tape. It goes on the HEM allowance, and it is SO important to 'balance the bulk' in hem areas! Do this by clipping the seam allowance and pressing the seams opposite directions.

1 comment:

Rachel Neil said...

I can sew by hand but that's about it, I've never sewn by machine, I just don't know how.