SEWING DILEMNA? Ask Londa's FREE advice!!!

Yes...as a sewing educator for over 35 years, designer, and author with experience as a sewing machine dealer/fabric shop owner, custom dressmaker and more...I'm most happy to answer ANY and all questions to the best of my ability. Just contact me HERE with your question.

Saturday, July 02, 2005

Special Fabric Offer fr Londa

Special Fabric Offer
Designer Charles Chang Lima Fabrics

Am I ever having the time of my life - examining, petting, measuring, folding, describing over 40 yummy scrumptious fabrics in the Charles Chang Lima Collection I purchased on that Chicago buying trip!!!!

Honestly, it has become apparent that I have purchased more than 2 vans could possibly carry down the American Sewing Guild Convention the end of July - so I have to thin this out NOW!
Londa's Fashion Club Members will automatically be receiving actual swatches of these fabrics. (They are my VERY special customers..and always get top treatment!).
BUT - 2nd in line are those who have joined my BLOG.

Sew...if you e-mail me your name and address byTuesday morning, July 5 - I will include you in this sample mailing.

I don't have the time to scan and upload all of these fabrics to my website - so there will be a special ordering process described in the mailing.

Laces - French, VERY interesting black laces, sweater knits - already fused to nylon tricot, fine gabardines, rich textures, wonderful cotton shirtings... you'll be THRILLED! These are just what I dreamt of trying to find after my Chicago Gold Cost Designer snooping!!!
Prices will be VERY good - and even better if you take the entire yardage. First come...first get so don't delay once you get the swatches!!!!
Sew - send me your snail mail address. If you are a Fashion Club Member - just know you needn't do anything! AND, some Londa's 2 Cents Worth are also being written - at least 2 on their way to you by next week's end.
Sewing hugs,
Londa

Friday, June 24, 2005

What Londa's been up to...

Last week I was volunteering at a camp for the disabled run by the Joni and Friends association. What an experience. It was an honor and a privilege to serve these beautiful families.

While I was gone, my newest website featuring the wonderful Clover Notions from Japan was launched: http://www.londasclovernotions.com Go take a peek. Through the end of June, all shipping is half price!

AND, I'm hard at work on yet 2 other new sites:
Londa's Favorite Sewing Notions - consisting just of my own personal picks of the very best of the notions available.... 40 years of serious sewing speaking here. :)
will be: http://www.londassewingnotions.com - hopefully by July 2.

Kai Scissors - also from Japan, =- again, hopefully live by July 2... http://www.londaskaiscissors.com

I'd love it if some of you would chime in and share what you're sewing on...

Hot, humid - great summer days here in central Illinois.

Londa


AND - Kai

Monday, June 20, 2005

For what the designer's are up to...

I've been enjoying the newsletter on the latest releases of the top designers from this site:
http://www.net-a-porter.com and thought you might too. Just sign up for their newsletter.

Some quick glances will make you smile from ear to ear that you sew!

I was gone all last week volunteering in the name of Christ to disabled children and their families - what an experience! More later...

This week, every morning, I have 3 little girls here - Sewing Camp!

Have fun looking at designer clothes...

Any comments most welcome!

Saturday, June 04, 2005

Chicago Gold Coast Fashion Report

I had a GREAT time combing through racks of top designer fashions in Saks, Neiman, Bloomingdales, Chanel, etc. this week in downtown Chicago.

Some observations I think you'll find interesting, inspiring, and even entertaining...
  • a 5' plus long pleated scarf - maybe 8" wide. Could certainly be done on the Perfect Pleater. Stitched down the center, a long, very skinny bias cording . This was a wonderful scarf. I can also see having fabric pleated to do this. I know San Fransisco Pleating Company can do that to fabric for you. I may just have to do these in Orange with blue center strip for my www.londas-illiniwear site...

  • RAW EDGES! Especially on knits and lightweight mesh/net and silk chiffon edges. Tucks sewin on the outside as texture. Large, square pieces for drapes and skirts. Lots of bias cut skinny strips sewn around and around the yoke area of skirts. Skinny elastic tucked up, stretched and stitched between an outer and lining layer on skirts.

  • At Antropologie - a very fun website, and place to visit - shuch shabby chic things - but to see that concept done well --- "'classed up" in fabric and fabrications by the designers was the real treat for me! Anthropologie was just too too - if you know what I mean. I don't think it's quite totally 'right' for us baby-boomers - IMHO. Some of the ideas, quieted down are fun though. Anyway - there is where I saw SO many raw edges. How about on a pair of paper bag pants, both the hem on legs and casing on top were turned to the outside of the garment, coverstitched with the loopy side of the stitch on the outside about 1/4" away from the raw edge of the hem/casing - which was let to hang and fray. Linen/Rayon. I liked that one - certainly EZ to sew!!!

  • Another great idea at Anthropologie was hooks from hooks and eyes and snaps - the silver ones, glued onto the top of a padded box as decoration on these Sewing Kits. In shapes of flowers, borders - absolutely TOO Cute!!!

  • Chanel: I saw this 'pleated' effect wool tweed skirt in the window one n ight - almost the "Carwash Skirt" effect - then was anxious to go in the next day to confirm that, yes - indeed, the edges of each section were just zig-zagged!!!!! Sections about 8" wide, overlapped about 1 1/2" from waist to hip - then 'loose' the remainder of the knee-length skirt. Both long edges were just zig-zagged as a finish. Amazingly....well, I just don't know quite how I feel about that!
  • Chanel: Jacket Peplums cut on the bias - unlined, unfinished .
  • Chanel: Black lace/mesh neting over a print chiffon in the top under a "Chanel" jacket - also used to line and vertically quilt together with the outer tweed fabric layer 'a la Chanel' technique. Still with the chain tacked inside the hem though to weight it down. I had Clair Shaeffer at my shop in 2003 and she gave a class on Chanel - what fun! Anyway - it gave me a somewhat 'Chanel-educated' eye with which to examine/evaluate things.
  • Lapel Flower at Chanel - and interestingly enough, the all seemed to be located on the garment's left side (everywhere). I myself always opt to put the shoulder decoration on the garment's right side, so as one is being looked at - and the effect 'read' - it 'reads' like a book: left to right... Anyway - back to the flower: simply multiple layers of chiffon circles stitched together flat, and adorned with some 'leafy shapes' of the jacket tweed fabric that had been fused onto Fusiknit to give some body.
  • Chanel Laced Trim. On a white texture-y tweedy fabric, black silk chiffon in bias strips - probably starting about 3" wide, just laced in a running stitch - about 2" penetrations along the neckline and front and sleeve edges. Raw white fabric edges beyond that, backed with a tiny ruffle of the bias cut black silk chiffon to complete the 'finish' of the neckline, front, and sleeve edges.

  • Tahari (from whom I have a bunch of fabric coming in, by the way!) Men-looking pin stripe wools in luscious, lightweight Italian wool in a jacket - then with a 'trim' of a bias cut strip of that same wool gathered up at tight as possible along both edges and used as a trim - only about 5/8" wide - along the upper collar edge and lapel/center front edges. Also then the same 'trim' as the welt on the diagonally placed welt pockets. That 'feminine touch' that seemed to prevail on everything - regardless of how tailored it was to start.

  • Godets everywhere! In skirts - naturally, but also as trim on an Armani Jacket! Picture a godet shape (pie shape) about 4" long, placed horizontally along a jacket front - with the wide part of the godet at the center front. Both the long edges of the godet stitched into horizontal seaming on the jacket, but placement such that the godet is floppy - or turns into a 'cone' 3-D shaped texture! This was in Armani's new Fall Line. $1395 for that jacket. I see why!
  • Also on an Armani Jacket - black wool flecky tweed (I have some of that fabric type coming!) trimmed with a WILD print binding on the jacket. Quite nice.

  • Akris Soft wool plaid jacket - brown (as was most everything coming in for Fall). Bias cut, double layer soft peplum on the jacket - unpressed lower edge so almost ruffly-like in a very soft (feminine) way.

  • Pucci stood out with amazing big, colorful Prints in his wool jackets - typically Pucci style. I didn't see any of that fabric to buy for you all, however! :(

  • Speaking of color - the brown, all tones of brown - from coppery to raisiny. A browned-down plum seemed prevalent as well. In general though - the more expensive it was - the less color it had.

  • Zig Zag Stitching - Lots and Lots of it as a finish! From Anthropoligie to Ann Taylor to Chanel and Armani - I saw this over and over again. Kind of like the designers found this 'new stitch' on their machines - or that their serger was broken. Though, there were lots of serged (both wide, regular and rolled hems) on edges as well. BUT, if the edge would work left raw - it certainly was!

  • Large floral prints in sheer skirts were the message in every designers' Spring/Summer lines - now on the sale racks, as the fall is coming in.

  • Award for the most preposterous pricing: holey jeans from Dolce and Gabbana at $1675. I suppose I'm supposed to be 'taken' by the 2" wide snakeskin strip down the side seams, bordered on each side with cheap-looking ecru netting. I passed these up for my own wardrobe. At Saks if you wanna run up and snatch them up for your own wardrobe! :)

  • Striking Texture Combination was a Rosey Pink Sheared Beaver short Jacket over a sosft, flowey silk chiffon and beaded evening gown. That cold Lake Michigan effect you know! This was absolutley stunning though.

  • Evening wear echoed the same slim top to flowy bottom silhouette I saw over and over in the Miss Universe Pagaent on 5/31. Just like I used to draw and design for my paper dolls as a kid...........

  • Riri Zipper Idea: Jumped out at me in an Armana Leather Jacket ($2375). An off-center zipper placement that extended up into a large 10" wide or so collar. Backside of the zipper then showed when the collar turned down - I'm definitely gonna play with this idea....

  • Soft Wool Plaid Bias Cut unlined wool pant - in a light tan color - with surprise black and white cotton print binding at the waist.

FABRIC BUYS

I hit the jackpot at a favorite design end house - an entire grouping of the finest Italian fabrics from designer Charles Chang Lima (check him out at t his link - or just Google for his name) http://www.fashionfinds.com/june00/pages/charles-chang-lima-1.htm that would normally range in price from $25 and UP.... and I will be able to offer them for half that!!!! Due in early July - along with lots of pieces from TAHARI as well. These are short cuts - 3-7 yards in most cases, on which I'll be offering a great "Full Piece Price".

Monday, May 30, 2005

What Londa's Up To...

Sorry I've been so 'silent' lately...
Your fearless leader has been busy:
1. Editing my first E- Book on CD: Creative Sweatshirt Jackets -
due to ship June 8, 2005...
2. Building yet another website - this time featuring mainly Clover Notions - with a "Londa Twist". Due to launch within a few weeks.
Here, you'll be able to get any Clover Notion in bulk and enjoy a 20% discount any day. Start to tell your friends...
3. Off May 31-June 2 to buy fabric!!!!
4. Readying for booth at American Sewing Guild Conference end of July in Nashville...
5. Snuggling that Grandson of mine...

Storing Winter Clothing

A hint: if your cedar chest doesn't smell so 'cedar-y" any longer, give it a little sanding with a fine sandpaper before storing your winter clothes.

Tuesday, May 24, 2005


This is a quick snapshot of the T-Shirt I made for my Son-in-Law for his first Birthday as a Daddy. I used the PHoto Transfer Paper I carry from June Tailor. I used another of the tShirts in the 3 package set onto which to transfer the photos, then cut them out and zig zagged them on with a big, open zig zag. Why? I was afraid I'd mess up the main t-shirt - most likely on the 3rd picture! AND, then I sewed them on rather than fusing them on because I didn't want it to be stiff. This way, I was also able to position the pictures as I desired. He's kinda funny to please - but a big smile sure came across his face when he realized what this was. AND, he recently told me he would wear it on Father's Day!
from Londa's design room

Tuesday, May 17, 2005

Baby clothes

Observations from the new Granny here...

When watching Cole last night - he seemed very uncomfortable - at 8 weeks, an outfit - though soft knit - had a large applique on the front - it was just stiff, and ended up scrunched up around his neck. We were both relieved when we changed out of that outfit!
So - beware, and remember the child's comfort and don't get carried away with just what looks 'cute' to us big people!

Likewise, when this little 8 week old guy was here on his Daddy's birthday over the weekend, the elastic of jeans didn't look very comfy either.

I suppose I'm just struck with how much we probably dress our babies to please us - and NOT them!

Also - I agree fullheartedly with another's observation I recently read - that babies are aoo tush (diaper) and belly - and it just doesn't 'work' with the majority of clothing that seems to be all leg and arm.

Any comments???

Monday, May 09, 2005

Interesting Miscellaneous fr Londa

Back from that wedding (it was great!) - and some observations from my reading and shopping...

1. Saw a great scarf - 3 straight long pieces of a sheer - say 1 1/2" wide - with a bias cut ruffle stuck into the 3 long seams. IN thinking how to do this, I decided one would just take that measurement of length - say 50" or so, and measure on a string. Form the string into a circle and draw it. Add a 1/4" seam inside - so you have a new cutting line. Draw 3" out from the circle all the way around. At one place, curve into the original for beginning and end of the 'ruffle'. This will create, when cut out - a long, bias-type of circular flounce. Make 3 of these - serging the curved edge with a rolled hem to finish. Stick one of these flounces into each of the seams of the long pieces. Leave ends of the long pieces open - to turn it all. That's it!
I can't wait to make one - will give you a pic soon.

2. Great Collar on a T-Shirt. On a fairly wide neck opening - take a bias separate piece of fabric - say about 4-5" wide and maybe 15" or so longer than the circumference of the neckline and offsetting the long edges a few inches, stitch into a tube. Turn right side out. Press flat - it will look scrunched. Stitch one pressed long edge to wrong side of the neckline , startingand ending at a shoulder seam - leaving the extra length loose there to 'tie'. Serge to finish, then let that 'collar' flip out to the right side of the T shirt - finish edges as you desire (or not - as a knit, it won't ravel). Tie the loose ends. That's it!

3. Simple, Simple, Simple finish for a T-Shirt. At Anthropoligie, I saw a T finish for the neckline and armscyes as simply a narrow - like 3/4" wide cross grain strip of fabric just stitched onto the back of the neck and armscye edges, so that one edge of this piece just stuck up a bit from the garment's edges. You could twin needle on - - or even zig zag... That was IT! I think often we make things TOO difficult!

4. Detail on a T-Shirt Simply twin needle (or cover hem) the turned under edges - then with a contrasting thread - a loose, wide zig zag with contrasting thread stitched over top of the twin needle work. Again - at Anthropologie. You might want to check out the clothes there - www.anthropologie.com I think.

And - read the entire THREADS Magazine #119 - July 2005 issue on the plane....
Some Comments
1. I LOVE that scarf on the front! Can't wait to try that one either!!! Dyed with Colorhue Fabric Dyes - I carry these dyes at my website and LOVE them too! Just dilute with water as you are led in a container (I save pickle jars), and dip in wet silk. Over-dyeing is fun too.. Shown on page 32 - the end of the article.
2. Great stitches per inch metric conversion chart... just facts, and shared by Kay Lancaster - a
gal with endless knowledge...

20 stitces per inch (spi) = 1.3 mm
15 spi = 1.7 mm
12 spi = 2.1 mm
10 spi = 2.5 mm
8 spi - 3.1 mm
6 spi - 4.2 mm
5 spi = 5.1 mm
4 spi = 6.3 mm

3. Loved that 'duh - why didn't I think of that' tip of when you leave an opening to turn something - like on a pillow - to pivot and stitch to cut edge of seam on both ends of the opening - keeps stitches from popping when you stuff the pillow! From Shirley Schoen, San Fransisco. Great picture on page 12.

4. Fitting Pants from the waist down - article page 35. I found interesting - but almost exact opposite I've done for year - following basically the Palmer/Pletsch technique. I want to give it a try. Thoughts of yours??? Top photo page 37 though - looks taken with camera slanted upwards which scews it all. I think it depends on the body as to whether the waistband is level with the floor or not. Some I've seen dip much more than 1/4" to 1/2" in the front. GREAT idea for adjusting the hem on page 39! Another 'duh-why didn't I think of that' moment.

5. Invisible Zipper article - page 46. I've always pressed that 'roll' of the zipper coil out to begin with as the directions with the invisible zipper foot say to do. Comments? GREAT idea for matching on page 49!

6. LOVEd the fashion review starting on page 50. See - I was 'right on' with the Ultimate Broomstick Skirt of Lyl'as as mentioned on page 52.

7. I think Linda Lee is 'right on' with suggesting the 3 step zig zag for the stitch to do on a fabric to which you 'ravel' the edge up to - better than the straight stitch. See page 60.

8. Hairline Seams - article page 60. I love the Gingher Applique (duckbill) scissors for trimming as well, but they don't INSURE that you won't cut into the fabric - so beware. I use the needle down into the fabric and presser foot down on my sewing machine as the '3rd hand' to hold one end of my work firmly while I do this type of trimming...
Bottom half of page 63 - I think they have contradicted themselves in which way the seam allowance will roll - anyone else? I'm confused.

9. Capris and Croped pants lengths - page 68. I think the labvelling is wrong on the diagram. The top one should say "cropped" length and the bottom one "Capri Length - to agree with the top portion of the article. :)

10. How about Comment on the design Challenge garments - page 77. I liked Mary Ray's jacket - but that's it for me.

Monday, May 02, 2005


Wedding Runner/StoleThis stretches out straight - I've just curved it to get it all in the picture for you - it isn't done yet - needs border/backing and fringe on each end. In it are pieces of my mother's wedding gown, bride's mother's gown, my (Aunt) gown, and cousin's (my daughter's) gown. She will be able to use it as a table runner, or a shawl/stole. More specific how-to's are at my website under Gallery - Gift Ideas.
from Londa's design room

Londa (me) in my absolute favorite, wear-every-day "Comfort Jacket"! Yep - a few buttons are missing. Doesn't matter - I never button it anyway. I like: the pockets - to get tiny things from one spot in my house to another - the tight lower sleeves (though a knit, so stretches some), the shortness of the sleeves - I can do dishes without getting them wet! I don't know - it just works for me - I'm often in my basement design studio where I sew, do lots of computer work on the flat screen, etc - and it is chilly down there - so this just works for me. The best gift I think I ever received! My husband laughs at me in it. It is on my list to copy and make a pattern for so I can make myself some additional garments just like this! I learned how to do this from Marcy Tilton - not that hard!
Sew... what is YOUR favorite garment? The one you grab for every day when you just wanna veg out - or attack your work - or your hobby? Post pictures here and share it.
Londa

Tuesday, April 26, 2005

Great Photo Tool

Playing/exploring more with the AMAZING and FREE software called Picasa2 is what is on my list of 'fun' today!

I highly recommend that you download it and play around with it yourself as well.

www.picasa.com


This software plus the other FREE program called HELLO - developed by the BlogSpot people (all Google-related) are what will make it EZ EZ for us all to share our photos here at the Blog -

BUT
additionally, I'm confident that you will thank me many times over for bringing this picture and photo organization tool to your attention. For myself, I know I have pictures spread all over my computer in various places, and this tool promises to help me get organized in a way that I can SEE the pictures as I do it and then find them to 'use'.

Also - I've come up with an idea regarding keeping you up-to-date on the 'good stuff' that has been posted and commented on on the Blog. I am assembling all members' emails in a new group in my newsletter manager and will soon start sending out a weekly summary of posts and comments. This way, I am taking on the 'chore' of pulling out the new stuff so that you can quickly and easily come to the Blog and read what you care to - without searching through everything.
Thanks, Joan, for bringing this 'challenge' to my attention!

Londa

Sunday, April 24, 2005

Londa's Fashion Review

I've been hard at work putting together my Fashion Review for Spring/Summer '05. It is quite lengthy - so I'll post it as a comment to this post.

I think this can be a fun discussion - so click on the Comments to read - then comment/add to it with your opinions on current fashion.

We're talking about real life, wearable fashion... :)

Wednesday, April 20, 2005

Londa's Jean Purses

Londa, you are one creative gal! I love both of your Jean Purses. Is that a man's tie being used for a handle?? I noticed you worked in Illini orange also. Did you have it available during March Madness? Keep sharing your talents with us. It is very inspiring.
Joan